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Something for May: The Concerts are Coming Edition

A roundup of things to do in Iceland this May, as prepared by your ticket-holding editors.

  • Bob Dylan does his best John Lennon.Icelanders aren’t much for people who whine about what’s wrong in the world, but they sure are excited about Bob Dylan’s concert 26 May. Just like a woman.
  • Rite of Spring Festival returns 17-19 May. It’s like Airwaves for the folk, jazz, and world music scene, except people might actually remember it the following day.
  • Speaking of old-people music, John Fogerty will try to slip some non-Credence Clearwater Revival tunes by the crowd 21 May. It’ll give you a chance to grab a beer.
  • How about something for nothing? Only if you’re fast. There’s a free Midday Concert in Hafnarborg 1 May. Book now!
  • It’s never too early for a blunt. James Blunt visits the joint 12 June. Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em.

And hey - let’s be careful out there.

The Little Gay Viking

Little Gay Viking? Maybe one out of three.There once was a little gay Viking. This friendly but misunderstood fellow spent all his time braiding horses’ manes and knitting colorful scarves. The village people liked him, until one day he got drunk on chocolate choo-choos at the summer festival and tried to kiss Thor, the blacksmith. Thor was really embarrassed and angry because he was more aroused than disgusted, so he locked him in a closet.

From that day on the little gay Viking, and all other little gay Vikings that came after him, had to hide their feelings or risk the consequences. But about 30 years ago a group formed to help. Samtökin 78 decided that all of the gay Vikings should be let out of the closet, and they somehow got the rest of the country (more or less) to agree.

These days the majority of Icelanders not only accept the lifestyle of their more fabulous countrymen and women, they even show up in droves every summer to celebrate their diversity with a Gay Pride parade.

So whether you’re a stromo, a judy, or a raging bear, Iceland has a special place for you - and we promise it won’t be in the closet.

Iceland’s gayest upcoming events:
17 May - Gay dance at Organ | 13-16 June - Leather Summit

Get the whole flaming story: Gayice

 

What to Name Your
Icelandic Baby

After that first blissful night in an Icelandic nightclub, the next thing you’ll want to do is have an Icelandic baby. This is perfectly understandable, but be warned: you’ll have to give it an Icelandic name. It’s the law.

Beautiful Icelandic Children

You might frown at a rule dictating what you may or may not name your child, muttering something about freedom of choice, but you’ll soon find the rules helpful. After all, the more interesting your child’s name, the more interesting you yourself appear to be, so naming your kid Aðalbjörg will give you all sorts of cool cache. Plus it will prove to your friends and family that you’re finally shacking up with an Icelander.

But some Icelandic names sound disappointingly English, so avoid “Jón”, “Davið”, “Anna”, “María” and “Nóvember” at all costs. Instead, how about “Snjólaukur” for a boy, or “Grettisgata” for a girl? Whatever you do, do not name your baby “Björk” — it’s just trying too hard.

Hopefully you already understand about the Icelandic last-name conventions, which dictate that boys take their father’s first name and stick a “son” on the end of it and girls have to do the same with “dóttir”. And if you’re really, truly traditional you’ll give your son both his father’s first name and last name as a special treat — which is how the world was blessed with the likes of Magnus Magnusson.

Magnus Magnusson

But try to be original: there are many beautiful Icelandic names to choose from - some more pronounceable than others. Luckily, nearly all Icelanders are given nicknames that are shortened, easier versions of their birth-names at some point, which means that no matter what you choose to name your child, it will inevitably be known as either Siggi or Sigga in the end anyway. So much for cool cache.

Don’t take our word for it: before naming your baby you’d be wise to look up Wikipedia’s full list of genuine Icelandic names for boys and girls. And you can check their meanings here. Good luck!

Insert Your Own Bad Spring Pun Here

Book Now!We’re at it again!

Miss out on the concert giveaway last week? Have no fear - the Icebreaker’s here!

Travel From: London, Copenhagen, Berlin, Barcelona, and Alicante

Travel Period:
17 April - 14 May 2008

Booking Period:
16 April (noon GMT!) - midnight 17 April 2008

One-way fares, including taxes and charges, from:

  • ₤56
  • €70
  • 535 DKK
  • 669 SEK

Legal Stuff: Act fast because when they’re gone, they’re gone. Limited dates too, of course.

Still here?
Get your seat before this deal melts away. Book Now!

Follow the Light

The first 100 people to book this Icebreaker deal will get free concert tickets, but everyone gets return tickets for ₤154!

Quit playing with your mirror ball.The Þráður (Thread) music festival next weekend features some of Iceland’s hottest bands (see below), and we want to give you a free ticket. The first 100 people to book one of these special city break deals will walk in for free. That leaves lots of extra cash to buy the blonde at the end of the bar a drink.

*If you are one of the 100 lucky ticket winners you will pick up your pass at the venue (NASA).

Travel From: London, Copenhagen, and Berlin

Travel Period:
Depart 17 April, Return 21 April 2008

Booking Period:
Friom right now until 17 April 2008

Return fares, including taxes and charges, from*:

  • ₤154
  • €190
  • DKK 1430

* Be sure to choose the correct currency during booking for the deal!

Legal Stuff: Act fast because when they’re gone, they’re gone. Limited dates too, of course.

Still here?
Come get your groove on, Iceland style. Book Now!

Some of the Thread bands: Halfdís Huld | President Bongo of GusGus | Brain Police | XXX Rottweiler Hundur 

Why Iceland Sucks Socks

You stink.Our new employees don’t sock around — they tell it like it is.

Need to say something to someone about Iceland but don’t dare do it in person? Let our new employees do your dirty work for you.

The Iceland Socks are a rag-tag bunch of loudmouth sock puppets with questionable taste in clothing. They seem to be traveling around Iceland and they’re not afraid to say what they think of it.

Or, to be more precise, they’re not afraid to say what you think of it.

Feed them some lines and cut a short film that doesn’t have to sound like it comes from the Icelandic Tourist Board. You can then send your masterpiece to a friend! Or a foe! Or the nearest film school!

Don’t sock around: Send a sock-o-gram now!

Something for April: The Make Your Own Edition

A roundup of things to do in Iceland this month, as prepared by your always-ready-to-satisfy-themselves editors.

Get packing.As far as official events go, April is a dead month. Spring is in the air and nobody wants to commit to being anywhere, at any time (except, perhaps, the pool — let’s say Saturday at noon?). So here are some suggestions to keep you busy this month:

  • Traveller’s Day corresponds to the first day of summer on the Viking Calendar. Celebrate with cheap bus tours, fishing trips and family events. We like our Traveller’s Day like we like our women: warm and inexpensive.
  • Go see some glaciers and rocks and things. Ok, it’s a shameless plug, but we know a few tour operators who will gladly show you around. Get on the bus.
  • You can walk off your hangover (and the twelve hot dogs you ate yesterday) with a hike up Mount Esja. A 15 minute drive from the capital, Esja offers a relatively easy hike to the best views around.
  • Find your next mad crush. In case you haven’t heard, Icelanders are rather good looking. And smart. And they don’t expect you to have great manners. You just may have a chance.

And hey — let’s be careful out there!

Why Stop at the Showers?

Iceland: The least likely place on earth to perfect your all-over tan.

Come on Jude, save the spanking for later.Almost a year and a half ago we warned you about the nude bathing requirements at Reykjavík’s swimming pools. The inquiries from terrified travellers were overwhelming.

Do I really have to get, like, all the way undressed?

Are there any pools with private showers?

I’m circumcised… will that be a problem?

It seems that most people who visit Iceland haven’t been naked in public since the nurse slapped on their first diaper.

But we fear that we may have created a monster. Apparently some of you are becoming so comfortable with yourselves that the establishment has been forced to act. Notices prohibiting women from doing any ”personal grooming” in the showers have sprung up on changing room walls, and now this story appears in an Icelandic newspaper.

The article describes the rising popularity of topless sunbathing at public pools in Iceland and notes that, in most cases, while airing your lady lumps may get the attention of the 14-year-old boys swimming nearby, the pool staff couldn’t care less. At least they won’t kick you out for it.

In a poll of our Iceland Express office, nobody reports noticing an increase in nipple slips at public pools (although our Content Editor excitedly claims to have seen Páll Óskar lose his bottoms on the water slide at Sundlaug Vesturbaejar).

But closet exhibitionists rejoice - the weather is warming up, the sun is shining, and the tourists are on their way.

Most Boring Iceland Review Stories of the Month

Please pass the smelling salts.Iceland Review is a web news site and quarterly magazine specializing in all things Iceland.  As a resource for foreigners interested in the goings-on of daily Icelandic life, it is about as good as you can get (other than this page, of course).

But here’s the thing: There are only, like, 300,000 people here. There just isn’t that much news.

Hence, The Most Boring Iceland Review Stories of the Month:

Central Bank Contemplates Measures for the Banks
-They must be taking a break from all the sing-alongs and finger painting.

Business Opportunities in Development
-Business Opportunities took 2007 off.

Senior Citizens in Reykjavík Satisfied
-Perhaps by the new business opportunities.

Iceland May Minimize Trans Fats
-Just maybe. Better check back daily for updates!

Supplement your blogging with some of IR’s more interesting stories here.

 

An Introduction to
Icelandic Mannerisms

Want to avoid feeling out-of-place in Reykjavik? Never mind eating sheep testicles in an attempt to fit in — here are the important everyday customs you’ll really need to become a true Friend of Iceland.

Never eat soup with your fingers

Take off your shoes
If you’re lucky enough to get invited into the home of a genuine Icelandic person (yes, it has been known to happen) make sure you take your shoes off at the door. Walking wet sludge all over their brand new parquet flooring is considered bad manners. And watch out - the same rule applies at some swimming pools, doctor’s offices, and other public areas.

Whatever you do, don’t say hello to anybody
Never say “hi” to anybody you recognise. Not even if they spent the whole of last night propping up the bar with you, relaying their life-story. People don’t greet each other here until after they’ve had at least two beers — then you’re free to hug / laugh / cry / get married, whatever.

Eat everything with your cutlery
Icelanders haven’t yet realised that burgers are served between two pieces of bread precisely so you don’t need to use a knife and fork to eat them.

Don’t be a push-over
Don’t feel offended if you get shoved to the floor in bars. It’s not that Icelanders are rude, it’s just that you’re in their way. We advise you to smile brightly and push right back. You might make a friend that won’t say “hi” later.

It's not a custom, they're just cold

Get naked
Icelanders are notoriously hygienic. You must shower naked before you swim, paying special attention to your special areas. If you’re not sure which parts we mean exactly, refer to the classic Naked Androgynous Diagram.

You seem to have right-of-way
Don’t be surprised when cars slow down to let you cross in front of them; even if you never wanted to cross in the first place. It just gives everybody a chance to get a better look at you.

No Icelandic word for ‘please’
Say takk a lot to make up for it.

Something for March: The Bleeding Gums Edition

A roundup of things to do in Iceland this month, as prepared by your 8 Bar editors.

  • That sax will never make it through airport security.The Yardbirds don’t remember the 60’s, but you might. They join musicians from all over the world 18-21 March at the Reykjavík Blues Festival. Sad and happy at the same time
  • So you’ve seen Spamalot four times… wouldn’t it be nice to see the New York City Players in an homage to old western movies in Iceland? The International Festival of Theater runs 6-9 March. Who needs Monty Python?
  • Help March go out like lamb by adopting your very own Icelandic sheep. Really. Use her wool, choose her lover, and even eat her children. Better hurry before Angelina Jolie and Madonna snap them all up!

And hey - let’s be careful out there!

Happy Birthday,
Dear Iceland Express…

We asked for a pony, but we got 5000 seats for ₤53 instead.

We call him Five LegVisit Iceland for less than your British Gas bill…

Travel From: London, Copenhagen, Berlin, Barcelona, and Alicante

Travel Period:
1 March to 15 May 2008

Booking Period:
Noon GMT, 27 February 2008 - 17:00 GMT, 28 February

One-way fares, including taxes and charges, from:

  • ₤53
  • €71
  • DKK 530
  • SEK 660
  • NOK 560
  • ISK 6.995

Legal Stuff: Act fast because when they’re gone, they’re gone. Limited dates too, of course.

Still here?
You’re late for the party - book a seat and come celebrate.  Book Now!

We come from the land of the ice and snow…

from the midnight sun where the hot springs blow. Led Zeppelin screamed these words and unknowingly became the first “Friends of Iceland”.

If you’re famous, have been to Iceland once, and have said anything positive about the country, you are qualified to be an Íslandsvinur - A Friend of Iceland

This honour is probably bestowed because we feel small in a global context and want to feel oh-so-glam, so we use that popular method employed by anyone feeling inferior – we namedrop.Kiefer, our friend with benefits When foreign friends are over we take them to Harrison Ford’s favourite Indian place, Ryan Philippe’s hang out hotel bar, and Damon Albarn’s does-he-still-own-it?-anyway-he-loves-it pub. And every girl you’ll meet here has received a drink or two from this or that chap. Especially this chap. –>

The first time celebs are here they might get some attention. But by the second and third time they’re here, they have gained the Friend of Iceland status and should be treated as a local celeb, i.e. coyly ignored except in queues outside the clubs. In this way, the celebs can get some privacy, and the Icelanders have something to blog about and tell their foreign friends.

We also like to spread our love of Iceland to all who visit. Even people that are here for work, like actors filming in Iceland, are said to have “fallen for Icelandic nature and leisure” simply because they spend their days off swimming, looking at Geysir, and going to clubs. If they buy an estate here it keeps the entire Icelandic nation happy for a month or so.Tarantino wearing Death itself

If the Íslandsvinur mentions that they were here in interviews it becomes headline news. Quentin Tarantino said horrible things about drunk Icelandic models on Conan O’Brian. However, he did like the snowmobile tour and he complimented Brennivín. This one was tricky, because of the drunken Icelandic women comments, but in the end his status as an Íslandsvinur remained because the girls he mentioned weren’t really supermodels (just regular Icelandic beauties) and he wore some Nonni Dead designs on various occasions after his visit. So it’s all good.

Oh, RobbieThere’s only one man that is an enemy of Iceland – Robbie Williams. When he stepped out of his private jet, and Icelandic news casters bombarded him with questions about what he knew about Iceland, as well as the infamous question How do you like Iceland? his security guards brutally pushed them aside. So Robbie criminally said absolutely nothing about the beauty of Iceland or its women, even though he had been in the country for about 12 minutes. Furthermore, he walked off stage after 20 minutes of playing because someone threw a water bottle on stage. A sworn enemy indeed.

If you are not sure how to keep your cool around international celebrities, go to this bar and learn from the best.

Iceland’s Contribution to the Iraq War, Part II

The search for Iceland’s troop continues. Let’s hope the war keeps going until she can go back!

Iceland’s Contribution to the Iraq War, Part I

Iceland’s troop finds that her hand-knit wool sweaters are not appreciated in Baghdad.

Get a Taste of Iceland

This is an appetiser, but you better believe that the main course is far more filling!


Midwinter Bloating

Here in Iceland we’re currently in the thick of Þorrablót season—the traditional midwinter festival where people get together to eat rotten food and drink lots of Black Death. While it is commonly regarded by outsiders as merely a putrid-food drinkfest, there is a lot more to it than that.
Before Iceland adopted Christianity in 1000 AD, it was a Pagan society that worshipped the Norse gods. A blót was a celebration held in honor of the gods, and Þorrablót was held in the month of Þorri, which began in the 13th week of winter according to the Pagan calendar. Originally it was a sacrificial feast dedicated to the god Þór (Thor to you and me).
Save me an eyeball!Before 1000 AD, a brewing feud between Pagans and the growing number of Christians in the country threatened to erupt. The two sides each refused to acknowledge the laws of the other. Under the threat of imminent chaos, a decision was made to ask the Pagan Law Speaker Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði—who was known to be a pretty cool guy—to make a decision on behalf of the fledgling nation as to which laws it should uphold.
So old Þorgeir went and lagðist undir feld—literally ‘lay down beneath a skin’—in order to meditate on his decision (hence creating an idiom in the Icelandic language—when one needs to make a major decision they need to leggjast undir feld). He stayed there for a night and a day, and then declared that he felt it was most wise to adopt Christianity, although the pagans could still hold their celebratory feasts as long as they did so discreetly, i.e. in secret. Consequently the Þorrablót feasts went underground and, in addition to being a fun chance for a get-together, they presented an opportunity to finish off all those leftovers that had been preserved in… well, in whatever This may be raw meat, but it's not sushi.way was possible back then. And so Þorrablót became inextricably linked to things like cured (read: putrefied) shark, soured ram’s testicles, pickled whale blubber, sheep’s head jelly, soured intestines, and so on…
This carried on for centuries, until around 200 years ago someone decided that they probably wouldn’t be beheaded if they held the party out in the open. So today Þorrablót are held all over the country, replete with toasts to Thor (not really) and lots of the dubious delicacies described above (yes, really). No Pagan cloak required.

Have Your Own Þorrablót: Icecook | Jo’s Recipes

 

Something for February:
The You Don’t Mess with Spring Edition

A round-up of things to do in Iceland this February, as prepared by your sickly-white editors.

  • You Dont Mess with the ZohanTell darkness to “smell it… smell it… NOW TAKE IT!” 7-9 February at the Winter Lights Festival. Bring a flashlight.
  • Fight racism with hip-hop at Gauk á Stöng 1 February. Don’t expect to see many Spanish football loyalists.
  • The Iceland Symphony Orchestra performs Dark Days of Music 7 February. The title “Death of Music” was taken by Amy Winehouse.
  • Now that the weather has gone all winter on us, why not strap on a snow machine and carve a glacier?  You know you want to.

And hey - let’s be careful out there.

The Most Depressing Day of the Year

Restricted Icelandic daylight hours could make the whole of our winter pretty depressing if we let it, but the 21st of January has been and gone — and your editors are still alive to tell the tale.

This is like watching Home Alone on LSDAccording to alleged university professor Dr Cliff Arnall, Monday the 21st of January is officially the most depressing day of the year. He can prove it too, with one dubious mathematical equation and rather obvious references to bad weather and early nightfall. The only way to avoid this, according to the “Doctor”, is to book a holiday — not a bad thought, but it doesn’t help his credibility.

Well, even we have to admit that on the surface, Iceland is an odd choice for an uplifting holiday. We only have two seasons: winter and spring, and at the moment it’s most definitely winter: cold, damp, and — thanks to being anchored on the edge of the Arctic Circle — mostly dark. And yet we only rank number 34 on the World Health Organization’s suicide rate list. A disappointing result for most Icelanders (who like to come first at everything).

If we keep our heads down, we can't smell the farts.Maybe it’s because what little winter light we do have is pretty spectacular. There’s the northern lights, of course, caused by a collision of charged particles in the Earth’s magnetosphere — whatever that means. And at this latitude dawn and dusk can last for hours, so in good weather (and by “good” we mean freezing cold and snowy) Iceland is an all-day sunset — cue uplifting fluffy pink skies!

So, most depressing day of the year? Pfft, we didn’t notice. We were all happily sitting indoors, ignoring the season completely, knowing that spring is just around the corner. In late May.

Shake your blues - book a northern lights tour with Iceland Excursions; go horse-riding in the snow with Ishestar; or just have a beer in candlelit Kaffibarinn with the locals. And hey, hows about a smile?

Because Nerds are Cool in Iceland

A laptop in Reykjavik is like a guitar-case on the continent: it doesn’t matter what you’re doing with it, just carrying one around increases your chances of getting lucky.

Stickers will get you laidImagine using your computer in a pub back home; everybody would look at you like you’re barmy… before turning back to the television that’s blaring away in the corner, that is. Nearly all bars in Reykjavik are TV-free, thankfully, but what’s even better is that being a nerd is actually considered cool in Iceland, and you can surf the net in the pub without anybody thinking any the less of you for it.

Most bars offer free WiFi: just pull your computer out of your backpack and click to connect to the network. But make sure it’s the right brand of computer; Icelanders are generally trendier than most other nationalities, spending more money on over-priced hardware than anybody else, per capita. Of course, if you don’t own a Mac, you can always paint your PC white and slap an apple-shaped sticker on it — which would probably go down well in bars like Kaffibarinn where D.I.Y. fashion always wins you extra cool points.

Whose blog is that?Careful though, a few bars only offer net access at a price, but these places are money-grabbing tourist-traps which you hopefully wouldn’t be seen dead in anyway. On the other end of the scale, bars like b5 on Bankastræti not only offer free WiFi but will loan you a fancy MacBook to go with it, too. They don’t even charge — you just have to leave some ID behind the bar as insurance.

And remember, nobody has to know you’re just poking people on Facebook all day — scratch your head enough and we’ll all think you’re writing that award-winning first novel.

Other favourite nerding-dens include Babalu on Skólavörðustígur, Prikið on Bankastræti, and Hresso down on Austurstræti 20. If you’re not sure if a bar offers free WiFi, just ask. If the answer’s no, there are plenty of other places that do.

London, Copenhagen, and Berlin - Oh My!

Fly to Iceland from London, Copenhagen, or Berlin from just ₤52!

Follow the Orange Arrows...Iceland in the winter?! Of course! The weather is mild (really), there is plenty to do (glacier tour anyone?), and the nightlife never takes a season off (it’s always hot in the clubs).

Travel Period:
15 January to 15 March 2008

Booking Period:
14 to 16 January 2008 (noon GMT both days)

One-way fares, including taxes and charges, from:

  • ₤52
  • €71
  • DKK 533
  • SEK 638
  • NOK 560
  • ISK 6.375

The small print: Fares are on a first-come, first-served basis. When the seats are gone, they’re gone. Limited dates too, of course. Plus an Icebreaker fare can only be changed to a regular fare. That’s it, we think.

Still here?
Experience Iceland - like nothing you’ve done before. Book now!

Rebekka Guðleifsdóttir: Keeping Iceland Beautiful, One Picture at a Time

Stunning. Inspiring. Slightly wild… and the photos aren’t bad either.

In this second instalment of our continuing look at amazingly talented, attractive, self-taught female Icelandic photographers (yes, there’s more than one), we sat down with Rebekka Guðleifsdóttir, who has dominated Flickr by presenting Iceland, and herself, as art.

what you don't know can indeed hurt you

Rebekka Guðleifsdóttir is a bit uneasy about her success. She started taking pictures two years ago, and has since become one of the Web’s most popular photographers. During her short professional career she has been named “The Web’s Top Photographer” by the Wall Street Journal, done commercial work for Toyota, stared in a London documentary, and established her own web site and online store to sell prints. All while trying to finish art school and raise her two boys.

EveIEX: Rebekka, how did all this start?
RG: I really just fell into photography without planning to be a photographer. I worked for three years in a coffee shop and would do pencil drawings when things were slow. I sold a few, and hoped that I would eventually become a painter.  But then I discovered that I could make photos that looked like what I wanted to paint, and they didn’t take 4 months to produce! Plus, I was a hopeless painter.

You’re obviously a good photographer - your Flickr site has received well over 4 million hits.
Sometimes I wonder if it’s been too fast. Flickr is a bit of a monster. I owe a lot of my success to the site, but it has also forced me to become “professional” about my work very quickly. When I started posting pictures I was really just messing around, having fun taking shots of myself or whatever came to mind. As the popularity of the site grew and I learned more of my craft, it became more about creating art through photography.

Your subject matter has to help. 
Yeah, Iceland is very photogenic! [Laughs.] I know that there were people who came to my site to see more of “me,” but that’s not what I’m all about. If that’s all I was aiming for I could just upload a new photo every day, instead of struggling for weeks to create a work that I’m proud to show off. I create self portraits, but the photos are not about my self. In most photos my face is hidden because the shot is about the vision, the interaction of human and landscape - I’m more of a prop. Plus, I’m there when inspiration strikes, and I don’t have to spend time conveying my idea to someone else, hoping they do what I need them to do - I already know what I want.

Krýsuvík

And you know what other people want…
People tell me all the time that they’re visiting Iceland because of my pictures. Ironically, my landscapes have been almost dismissed by my teachers… they’re not “art.” I disagree. When you live in a place like Iceland, how could you look around and not want to photograph it all? Living here makes it easy to see the art in everyday life… the key is to capture something that your eyes usually miss. Otherwise, why take a picture?

So what do you do when you’re not taking amazing photos?
[Long pause, then laughs.] Nothing. Well, I read and knit, and sleep sometimes, but free time is a rare treat. Between my two boys and school and taking photos, that’s about it.

Don’t worry Rebekka, that’s quite enough for us.

Rebekka Guðleifsdóttir: Rebekka’s Page on Our SiteHer Website | Buy Prints | Flickr

Something for January: The Rebirth Edition

A roundup of things to do in Iceland this January, as prepared by your flamin’-in-’08 editors.

Chest hairs rosting on an open fire...January is always a time for reflection and change. Throw in raging bonfires, enough fireworks to make a Chinese arsonist crap his pants, and the return of the sun, and there’s nowhere that feels quite as refreshing as Iceland this New Year.

  • No friends on New Years Eve? Try your luck at any of the 10 free community bonfires around town. Drink, socialise, and burn some garbage
  • Can’t make it to Baghdad this year? Watch €20 million worth of explosives light up Reykjavík at midnight. George Bush would be proud.
  • Icelandic Christmas just goes on and on… Our favourite Yule Lad, Candle Beggar, makes his way back to the mountains 6 January. Thank goodness, that guy smells like rotten egg salad.
  • If there’s one thing that Icelanders know, it’s shopping. Retail prices in Iceland become almost normal in January during post-holiday sales, so join the fun

And hey - let’s be careful out there.

Putrid Fish for Beginners

Step One: Hold your nose.

Tastes like chicken.In a country of bizarre traditions, one of the craziest has to be the putrid skate party. Every year on Þorláksmessa (St. Thorlák’s Mass), 23 December, Icelanders get together and eat skate (the fish, not the sporting equipment) that has been sitting in a closed container and allowed to ferment for about a month. By that time it has a smell that can clear your sinuses from a mile away, and that is very reminiscent of cat piss (it’s the ammonia - yum!).

Predictably, not everyone is partial to this tradition. It’s kind of a macho thing. Men seem to be more prone to imbibing putrid skate than women … which is probably a good thing, as a single bite will put hair on your chest instantly. In fact, groups of men will get together in the afternoon to eat the stuff in unison. This will usually involve copious amounts of brennivín (a schnapps appropriately nicknamed Black Death) because, well, you’ll drink anything to get the stuff down. Very often these skate-fests take place in restaurants or garages for the simple reason that, if cooked in a kitchen, the prevailing smell during the holiest of all holy festivals will be less like cinnamon and spice and more like urine.

Not just a fun plague anymore.Supposedly, eating putrid skate originated in Iceland’s West Fjords, where the wealthy gave it to their workers so that anything – anything at all – would taste better in the aftermath. We’re sure they never envisioned that it would become a nationwide, er, delicacy … nor that, in a century’s time, people would be claiming that rotten skate cures colds and increases libido. While the first assertion is plausible enough (the stench could clear an elephant’s sinuses), the second… well… let’s just say you’re probably better off sticking to Viagra.

Sigur Rós Spreads Some Holiday Cheer

Icelanders have gotten a bit of a reputation for being shy with people they don’t know. We swear it’s not true.

Sigur Rós Info: Band Site | Their Movie | Crazy Fan Site

Chasing Aurora

You’ve seen the pictures, heard the rave reviews, and now you want to experience them for yourself: the aurora borealis, the northern lights, those elusive, magical, shimmering rows of colour that dance across the Nordic skies in winter.

Northern LightsThe northern lights are definitely near the top of sights to see for the majority of tourists that travel to Iceland in the winter. However, frustratingly, they tend to play hard to get. They don’t just appear on command, and there are no guarantees. For one thing, the conditions have to be just right. Obviously, it has to be dark, with an absence of cloud cover. It also has to be cold, preferably below freezing, which - you may be surprised to know - is not always the case in Iceland in winter. In fact, thanks to the country’s marine climate and the close proximity of the Gulf Stream, to say nothing of global warming, it’s far more common for temperatures to be above freezing than below it.

Also, the chances of seeing the northern lights are far greater during the darkest winter months, meaning November to January. By February the day is already getting longer, and the chances of catching a glimpse of aurora diminish rapidly.

Also the northern lights... duh.A number of tour operators run northern lights tours, which is probably an excellent bet for those serious about their northern lights viewing. The tour operators keep tabs on conditions at any given time and will head out to locations where the aurora are most likely to appear. This will usually mean heading into the countryside, since light pollution is another major deterrent to successful northern lights viewing. Hence the likelihood of experiencing those swirling, dancing lights increases substantially outside of the capital area.

If you think all this sounds like too much trouble just to see a few lights in the sky, think again. Standing out in the moonlight, far from human habitation, with those stunning columns of light wafting above you - and even emitting a vague whooshing sound! - you’ll be awestruck and thrilled in equal measure. And you’ll thank us later.

Take a Tour: Iceland Excursions

Something for December: The Insane Holiday Traditions Edition

A roundup of things to do in Iceland this December, as prepared by your door-slamming editors.

It sounds cliché, but Christmas in Iceland is really a magical time.  Maybe it’s the reindeer and snow, or Icelander’s willingness to throw themselves head-first into any and all celebrations. Whatever the reason, there is little doubt that a Holiday Season spent here will never be forgotten.

  • Never go head-first down the chimney.All month the Reykjavík suburb of Hafnarfjörður tempts Santa into testing the North Pole’s real estate market with their Christmas Village. Where else will you find a holiday celebration with horse riding, psychics, a Viking banquet, and elves?
  • Watch Icelanders reluctantly accept the charity of their Nordic neighbors at the lighting of the Oslo Tree downtown. What’s so great about forests, anyway?
  • Keep a hand on your sausage as the Yule Lads make their yearly visits starting the night of the 11th. Who knew that 13 little boys could make so much trouble?
  • Has the smell of cat urine ever made you hungry? Tuck into some rotten fish on Þorláksmessa 23 December. What a way to honor the patron saint of Iceland.
  • Catch a New Year’s fireworks display that would make Jack Bauer crap his pants 31 December. 300,000 people, 1000+ tons of fireworks… you do the math.

And hey - let’s be careful out there.

Iceland’s “Troop” Withdrawls from Iraq

Ok, we mean for this to serve more as a way to keep you updated on Iceland’s role in geopolitics than a statement of anti-war sentiment. Oh, and ignore the “other” airline’s plane at the end - Iceland Express doesn’t fly to Baghdad.

The Loneliest Icelander:


No Icelandic Word for Please

45 different ways to say the word “green,” but if you want a beer just say “I want beer.”

Babel on.As one Icelandic language teacher told her foreign students: “F#%& the grammar! You’ll never get it right, so let’s just talk.” Hmm, encouraging. But when you consider that there are 45 different ways just to say the word “green,” and then you have to think about cases, genders, and conjugation (whatever that is), you realize that she’s on to something.

Learning Icelandic is like getting a tattoo on your arse: it’s time consuming, painful, and you rarely get a chance to show it off. It’s an old language, not that different from Old Norse, and Icelanders don’t expect visitors to master much of it on their romantic mini-breaks. But speaking just a little will impress their socks off. Just don’t expect anybody to buy you a drink for it.

Thanks
“Takk”
Luckily, the most useful Icelandic word also happens to be the easiest to pronounce. Say what you see.

I want beer
Ég vil bjór “Yeg vill byor”
Say bjór the same way you’ve been incorrectly saying Björk all this time, just drop the K.

Please
Um, there isn’t a word for please.
If you want a beer, just say “I want beer”. Then just say takk a lot to make up for your appallingly bad manners.

Where is the train station?
There isn’t a train station either, forget about it.

Where is Björk?
Hvar er Björk? “Kvarr er B-yeurk?”
Okay, that cute letter with the little dots over it? It’s not pronounced “o.” Impress all your friends by saying her name the Icelandic way — you won’t be annoying at all.

You’re standing on my foot
Þú stendur á fæti mínum “Thoo stender ow feitee meenum”
Handy in nightclubs.

How much does this cost?
Forget it, you don’t want to know.

One hot dog with everything.
Eina með öllu “Ayna meth utloo”
Tough to pronounce, but well worth it, trust us.

Where is _____?
Hvar er _____? “Kvath er _____?”
Insert location of your choosing. We suggest “your place.”

Learn a bit more: Here | Here | and Here

How to Vacation Like an Icelandic Wage Slave

Not a bad place to spend the winter.Here in Iceland, there’s a groovy system in place for wage slaves: labour unions buy cottages all over the country and rent them out to their members on the cheap. This means that virtually every Icelander has access to a cottage, as it’s mandatory for salaried employees in Iceland to join a labour union.

Consequently, cottage culture is deeply ingrained into the fabric of Icelandic society. Indeed, with the recent economic upswing in Iceland there has been a virtual explosion in cottage ownership, either by private individuals or unions.

Without much prompting, most Icelanders will happily tell you about summers spent at their grandparents’ tiny cottage. If the story is worth telling, the cottage will have had no electricity or running water - just a wood-burning stove and a river in front. And it will be awfully remote, too, tucked away amidst the moss and lava up in Heiðmörk, which today is on