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Don’t fight them on the beaches

At least not on the Thermal Beach in Reykjavík.

BeachOf course we realise that people don’t come to Iceland for the beaches. The Blue Lagoon, maybe, but the beach? Hardly.

But should you find yourself on a warm summer’s day in Reykjavík with nothing better to do (and remember that the words “warm,” “summer” and “day” are all relative here), you could do worse than head to the totally pronounceable “Nauthólsvík Ylströnd,” a small thermal beach more or less in the city centre (see map).

As the Icelandic tourist board doesn’t get tired of telling you, Iceland has more geothermal energy than Donald Trump has bad hair days. It’s, like, all over the place. And back in the days, close to where the thermal beach is now, there used to be a little stream with geothermal water running towards the Atlantic ocean. Great for families during the day and skinny–dipping students at night.

Next thing you know, in 2000 somebody decides to set up a little man–made bay, buy some proper beach sand somewhere, and pump a lot of nice warm geothermal water into the freezing Atlantic seawater. And voilà, we have ourselves a beach.


The whole thing is quite popular with locals, and The Guardian has even called it Europe’s Best Exotic Beach. (Just remember: exotic doesn’t always mean you can take off your clothes.)

Related posts on this blog:
It came from the Blue Lagoon
Slimy Little Secret
Reykjavík Swimming Pools: The Naked Truth

We think this might be the beginning of a beautiful friendship

fac-250x.jpgBecome our friend on Facebook and we might just fly you to Iceland for free.

Like everyone and their grandmother we’ve been on Facebook for ages — our Icelandic page now has about 9,000 fans. (Yeah okay, it doesn’t sound like much but given the population of Iceland it’s the equivalent of JetBlue having 9 million fans. We’re just saying.)

The only problem is — gee whiz — that there are only so many people in the world that understand Icelandic. And we really wouldn’t want to leave out all you people who only speak útlenska.

So this is the deal. If we get over 5,000 útlendingar (i.e. someone like you) as fans on our new English Facebook page before the end of this June, we’ll send one of them two return tickets to Iceland from any of our European airports. Plus they get at least two nights in a really rather fine hotel in the city centre for free. And a timid kiss from our marketing director (or another staff member of their their choice.)

Who says you can’t buy friends?

Click here to go to our Facebook page in English

Cultural Learnings of Iceland, Part 5: The Blue Ópal

Rarer than a disco remix by Sigur Rós, the Blue Ópal is an Icelandic candy that is no more. It has ceased to be. It has expired and gone to meet its maker.

Blár Ópal FinalAlong with its Red and Green cousins, the Blue Ópal was born in 1950, when its producer, Nói Sirius, got some fancy new machines to play with.

They also commissioned some uncommonly nice op–art inspired packaging which had Icelanders happily munching on the tasty liquorice tablets for more than 50 years.

But a while ago, shortly after the European Union, for some unfathomable reason, banned the use of an innocent–sounding substance called chloroform in food (erm yes, that chloroform), Nói Sirius mysteriously stopped producing the Blue Ópal. Hmm. Anyway, almost 10,000 people on Facebook are now demanding its return, consequences be damned. Join them at your own risk.

Meanwhile, you can still get Red and Green Ópal in Icelandic stores. At least until the EU says otherwise.

Read all about the other Cultural Learnings of Iceland to Make Benefit the World: Skyr, Kókómjólk, Lýsi and Appelsín

Cheap and Chic Reykjavík Restaurants: Segurmo at Boston

Introducing a nice restaurant in Reykjavík where you can eat without actually breaking the bank.

SegurmoBoston (Laugavegur 28, first floor, tel +354 517 7816) is what happened when Sirkus finally died. Owned by the same fiftysomething blondes and frequented by pretty much the same crowd (and now, occasionally, their children), it sort of looks and feels like a slightly raunchier version of that Gucci advert by David Lynch with the Blondie song.

After running a serious drinking establishment for many years, they finally figured out that people also need to eat. So they installed a proper kitchen upstairs, and what’s more, Björk’s old private chef (and, somewhat worryingly, an occasional drummer for the band Singapore Sling) made himself welcome there. (Which might actually be the big story here. What is she eating now?)

Anyway, the restaurant itself is called Segurmo, the meaning of which neither we nor they are entirely clear about, but we can all agree that it sounds kind of cool. The menu is short, the prices are low and the food is pure comfort. Every week they offer three or four very reasonably priced courses (meat, fish, vegetarian, vulcan) and if you’re lucky their plokkfiskur with rúgbrauð and smjör will be on duty. Try it.

Oh, and by the way, if you know any other cheap and chic restaurants in Reykjavík you know where the comments are.

Previously on our User’s Guide to Reykjavík Restaurants: The Vegetarian Edition and The Heavy Breakfast Edition

Liked this post? Try these:
Kaffibarinn: Less coffee, more bar
Mývatn: Lake of Midges

Icelandic Music 101: Sprengjuhöllin

Need more Icelandic indiepop for the masses? Read on and get a lovely free mp3 download from Sprengjuhöllin.

SprengjuhöllinSprengjuhöllin is Iceland’s answer to [insert the name of your favourite arty and melancholy but strangely fun folk rock band here].

They’ve already played in Texas, New York and some place called “Canada,” and when this is written they are in fact sitting in one of our planes, on their way to Berlin where they’re starting their German mini-tour.

According to our resident expert in eligible young men, the guys from Sprengjuhöllin are “extremely good looking and funny, plus some of them were debate–team nerds, and one has even grown up to be a decent stand–up comic.”

They also have an “ö” in their name, which always helps.

Download Worry Till Spring by Sprengjuhöllin (mp3, 7MB)
(Just right-click and “Save as…”)

The song is Worry Till Spring, which they say is a “heartbreaking folk song about obsessive love.” In the original Icelandic version it was one of the most popular songs locally back in 2007. One lovable Icelandic–music nerd says this new version “proves that Sprengjuhöllin’s catchy, melodic pop songs translate into English more easily than their name.”

If you like it, you can buy the whole album on Amazon.

More Sprengjuhöllin: Official Website | Myspace | Facebook | Twitter

Previously on Icelandic Music 101: FM Belfast, Ghostigital, Gus Gus, Jeff Who?, Amiina and Múm.

It came from the Blue Lagoon

Indigenous creatures with white stuff on their faces, sloshing around in hot sulphuric water filled with minerals, silica and algae? No, it’s not the plot of an old horror movie. It’s just the Blue Lagoon.

shecamefromthebluelagoon1.jpgThe Blue Lagoon is a rather large amorphous body of water in an Icelandic lava field in the middle of nowhere, usually full of pretty hot geothermal water and people like you.

But it hasn’t always been so. Like a lot of interesting things, the Blue Lagoon happened by accident in the seventies.

Around the time ABBA were reversing the second B in their logo, a gleaming new geothermal plant right out of a Ridley Scott movie began pumping surplus water all over the place, creating a steaming pool of bluish liquid in the middle of a lava field in the southern peninsula of Iceland.

Later, in the early 80s, people started bathing in the lagoon and doing silly things like shooting music videos. The official story is that it (the bathing, not the music videos) helped with psoriasis but we think it was mostly it a cool place to go skinny dipping after hours. Also, the chemicals in the water did things to your hair that people liked back then.


Fast-forward to 2009 and what started as the unintended by-product of a geothermal electricity plant is now one of the most visited tourist attractions in Iceland. The New York Times’ calls it “the mother of all baths” and it’s even on the paper’s top 44 list of places to visit in 2009.

It even has its own line of cosmetics! Just like Britney Spears!

The Blue Lagoon is open daily all year and it’s actually rather conveniently located between the airport where you land and Reykjavík. (It takes about 30 minutes to get there from the city — just follow the smoke.) If you don’t have a car, there are plenty of people willing so separate you from your money by getting you there via bus. Try these for example. Oh, and if you figure out how the locker system works, please drop us a line.

More Blue Lagoon: Official Site | Wikipedia | Google Maps | YouTube | New York Times

Related posts on this blog:
Geysir: What goes up must come down
Mývatn: Lake of Midges
Glymur: Falling for you
Reykjavík Swimming Pools: The Naked Truth

Really nice foreign people who like Iceland: Mark Ollard

Meet Mark Ollard, a busy and important Londoner who really, really, really likes Icelandic music (except maybe Páll Óskar). He also thinks Mugison isn’t cute.

In the first of our series of interviews with Really Nice Foreign People Who Really Like Iceland, we talk to the lovely Mark Ollard. Mark writes a rather good “music blog that thinks it’s Icelandic” called Iceblah. He claims he’s been coming to Iceland Airwaves since 2004 but he still doesn’t know who Kitty von Sometime is. We investigated.

Mark OllardWe: Hey Mark. Why are you so obsessed with Icelandic music? Are you weird or something?

Mark: Well, I realise this is slightly ridiculous. I went to Iceland for the first time on holiday with my father in 1988 when I was 13 or 14, because I loved the Sugarcubes. We stayed there for a week, did the Golden Circle and all the usual things and I just loved it. I thought it was so clean and beautiful. When I got back to the UK I wrote to an Icelandic newspaper, asking for pen pals, and about 50 people wrote back.

Wow, this must have been before we had TV on Thurdays.

Without doubt! I ended up writing to this Icelandic girl — who I’m still friends with, by the way — who started sending me lots of cassettes with Icelandic music. Stuff like Nýdönsk and Síðan skein sól and something called Reptile, I think.

Yikes.

Yes. Anyway, I’d been amassing Icelandic CDs for years until I finally decided to go back with my best friend on my 30th birthday in June 2004 and then back again in October for Iceland Airwaves. After that I knew I’d be going back every year.

And you still don’t know who Kitty von Sometime is?

Nope, sorry. Is she famous?

Sigh. So what is it about Icelandic music that you like so much?

I’m not sure. I mean there isn’t really an Iceland sound, I think. Just take people like Mugison, Reykjavík!, My Summer as a Salvation Soldier and Retro Stefson. All incredibly different. And the highlight of the final night of last Airwaves, Fjallabræður — 30 guys, a proper karlakór from the West Fjords, performing with a real rock guitar — so unusual and suprising and amazing. They made this incredible noise.


And I’ve never understood how this tiny country can produce 10 or 15 really good bands at any one time. How does it happen? I mean, the Icelandic musical output is better than Germany’s. In England, people could name at least two Icelandic bands, but probably no German ones. I’m from Sutton, which has the same population as Iceland and there’s nothing…

We get it. You really don’t like German bands. But what are your favourite Icelandic bands at the moment?

Well, I like most Icelandic bands, except maybe Páll Óskar, I’m not so into that pure pop sound. The last CD I bought was by Sin Fang Bous which is actually the solo project of the lead singer of Seabear.

Let’s talk about Airwaves. You’re a veteran, share some points for the newbies.

Airwaves is hard work but I’m getting better at it. The first time I was there, I went home at midnight, just about the time when everyone was getting ready for the night. The busiest time on Laugavegur is 4 in the morning. Coming from London, where everything closes at 11 or 12, that’s really strange.

I’d definitely recommend the 12 Tónar the record store, Kaffifélagið where my friend Hildur works, and Prikið. They’re really good. And a hot dog at 3 in the morning. And the Airwaves chillout at the Blue Lagoon, if you haven’t been there before. I don’t do it any more, but you should do it at least once.

What is the biggest cliché about Icelandic music?

That it’s so “cute” — okay, some bands are quiet, gentle and quirky — but loads of stuff isn’t. I mean you can hardly call Mugison cute!

The next big thing?

Let’s see. FM Belfast have a great sound and some real momentum after Airwaves 2009. Reykjavík! are a deceptively tuneful band and a lot cleverer than they first appear. Great live band — huge spectacle. Also I don’t understand why Jeff Who? aren’t huge. I mean, they already sound like a successful indie band and have a commercial, popular sound. Maybe they can’t be bothered? Hjaltalín seem to be getting known in Europe now and Sprengjuhöllin in the U.S — they are really nice guys.

What about your blog?

IceblahYes, Iceblah is sort of my hobby, but it got quite a bit of publicity at Airwaves last year. I interviewed about 24 bands before the festival started. It get quite a bit of traffic now and I usually get a few emails every week from people. I love that.

What does your girlfriend think of all this?

She’s getting used to it. She came with me to Iceland last time. We’re getting married this summer and Ára bátur by Sigurrós will be played in the church.

Are you going to cry?

Yes, and my best man will cry as well.

What about your girlfriend?

Oh, she won’t be there.

It’s our birthday again. Guess who gets the presents.

PresentsTo Iceland from 46 pounds, 59 euros or DKK 449.

Where: To Iceland (and back if you must) from Copenhagen, London, Berlin and Warsaw.

Fly: Before the end of March.

Buy: On sale now! Offer must end at noon GMT on Wednesday 4 March.

How much: from £46, €59, DKK 449 one-way including taxes and fees.

The small print: Limited number of seats available at these prices, so be quick. (And we’re six, thanks for asking.)

Quick, click here to book this thing.

Iceland Express is going south. South to London Gatwick, that is.

Airport guyOn 1 May 2009, we move our London base from Stansted to Gatwick.

It’s been a great six years at London Stansted. But on 1 May 2009 Iceland Express moves its London operations to Gatwick airport.

The reason is partly operational — our sister company Astraeus is based there — and partly passengerial (and yes, we know that’s not a real word).

Basically, what it means is that our passengers will be a little bit closer to central London. The Gatwick Express takes around 30 minutes to Victoria Station, about 15 minutes less than the Stansted Express takes to Liverpool Street. And if anyone is using London as a stepping stone on the way to or from Iceland there are lots and lots of good connections at Gatwick.

We think it’s a smart move. What about you? Comments are open — tell us what you think.

Architecture in Reykjavík:* That Big Church Edition

To the locals it’s Hallgrímskirkja. To you folks it’s usually “That Big Church”.

Hallgrímskirkja

As Reykjavík’s tallest building, That Big Church (also known as Hallgrímskirkja, but don’t try to pronounce that by yourself) is a convenient landmark for tourists finding their way around Reykjavík.

Looking for Kaffibarinn? Oh, just walk down from That Big Church and turn right. What about the main square? Walk down from That Big Church and turn left. Going to Thingvellir? Walk down from That Big Church, turn right and walk for about 36 hours. (Okay, so it doesn’t work with everything.)

From an architectural standpoint That Big Church is a bit more problematic. With the general hodge-podge of styles, we’d like to call it postmodern but the only problem there is that it was designed in 1930s, several years before some guy in France invented postmodernism. So do comment if you have any better or more amusing theories. (That includes you, Ylva Brännström.)

Hallgrímskirkja in the mistNot content with being a huge signpost and a bit of an architectural oddity, That Big Church is also an actual place of worship. But don’t let that stop you from going there.

The have some nice choirs, and if you appreciate very big and extremely loud things we’re sure you’ll like the church organ, which looks like the assembled tailpipes of about 50 muscle cars, and can sound like someone is trying to wake up the dead. Plus it’s remote controlled.

Don’t forget to go up in the tower. (Yes, there is an elevator.) It’s a good place to look at all those cute brightly coloured roofs. You also get a nice surprise every 15 minutes or so. We’re not giving anything away, but let’s just say that this surprise might even wake you up in the morning if your hotel is close by.

(Psst. Want to see it in person? Get your cheap flight to Reykjavík with Iceland Express)

More Hallgrímskirkja: Wikipedia | Flickr | Google Maps | Choir in action | 43 places

*With apologies to these guys

A User’s Guide to Reykjavík Restaurants: The Heavy Breakfast Edition

Like the smell of bacon in the morning? Here are three places to go to for a robust breakfast in Reykjavík.

Eggs and bacon for breakfast in ReykjavikGrái kötturinn on Hverfisgata 16a is a small basement place (café would obviously not be the right word here) opposite the Culture House. It’s run by Hulda Hákon and Jón Óskar who like all proper artists used to live in New York, and missed the vigorous American breakfast when they moved back home. You can connect the dots from there: the sumptuous pancakes come with bacon and syrup, and the coffee is guaranteed to wake up the dead — which, given that they open very early on weekends, some of their stay-up-late clients may actually resemble. Pictures on Flickr

Prikið on Bankastræti 12 is also a serious contender in the cholesterol competition, with a menu that the chefs at Grái kötturinn must take as a particularly sincere form of flattery, and warm 50s interior that basically calls for a portion of eggs, bacon and a filter-free cigarette. Open on weekdays from 8 in the morning till 1 after midnight, Prikið doubles (or should that be triples?) as a pretty good bar-slash-club on weekends, staying open until 5.30 in the morning. So do give them a break if they don’t open till 12 on Saturdays and Sundays. Pictures on Flickr | Website

Hamborgarabúllan (literally, “the Hamburger Joint”) at Geirsgata 1 may admittedly not be recommended by nine out of ten doctors as a breakfast establishment, but we can verify that under certain circumstances their offerings can be most beneficial. Trust us on this. Pictures on Flickr | Website

Previously on our User’s Guide to Reykjavík Restaurants: The Vegetarian Edition

Jól: It’s Christmas, but not as you know it

Bad SantaSeven things that make Christmas in Iceland a little different.

1. The Jólasveinn is the Icelandic version of Father Christmas. But not really. First of all, there are thirteen of them (we guess you could call them Brothers Christmas). And they come to town one by one on the days before Christmas to do things the other guy would never do — like lick your cutlery, peek through windows, harass your sheep, eat your skyr, steal your candles and smoked sausages, and probably fondle your wife.

Known in English as “Yule Lads” (possibly the lamest gang name in history), the jólasveinar have mellowed out a bit over the years — they even seem to have signed some sort of sponsorship contract with the Coca-Cola Company. But it’s still pretty disturbing when you think about it. More on our Bad Santas.

2. “The Shoe.” Starting 13 days before Christmas, children put a shoe in their window at night. If they have misbehaved that day, they get a potato, but if they’ve been good, they get something that requires batteries. Think of it as a jólasveinar-managed performance-related rewards system.

3. Jólakötturinn, the Christmas cat, apparently makes bad things happen to you (i.e. eats you) if you don’t buy yourself some new clothes for Christmas. Sounds to us like the fashion industry’s marketing ploys are getting increasingly desperate.

4. Skötuveisla usually happens on Þorláksmessa, the 23rd of December. It involves a surprising number of seemingly normal people eating what is known as “kæst Skata”, which tastes about as good as it sounds. More about putrid fish for beginners.

5. Christmas Eve is the really big day. No putrid fish, just nice stuff to eat and then the presents. Oh, and we drink this stuff.

6. Jólaboð are the parties that pretty much fill up the period from Christmas Day to New Year’s Eve, where you get to meet the members of your family that you’ve managed to avoid the rest of the year.

7. New Year’s Eve is when we shoot up fireworks. A lot of them.

So, do you feel up for it? Click here to book a flight to Iceland for Christmas.

More Christmas in Iceland: Something for December | The Yule Page | Reykjavík | The Food Museum | Icelandic Embassy in Washinton | Louder than Swahili

A User’s Guide to Reykjavík Restaurants: The Vegetarian Edition

reykjavik-vegetarian-restaurantsIn this first instalment of our guide to Reykjavík eating we explain how being a vegetarian in Iceland is not so much a lifestyle as a constant struggle.

Abandon hope all ye vegetarians who enter here isn’t actually a sign in the arrivals hall, but until a few years ago it would have been a pretty accurate description of the state of veggie eating in Reykjavík.

Asking for a vegetarian dish in a regular restaurant is still more than likely to result in a well, we have a salad, and if you tell people you’re a vegan they’ll probably tell you that they don’t really watch Star Trek.

(This might seem terribly unsophisticated, but once you’ve spent a few days here, you’ll admit that given the weather conditions it’s maybe not surprising that local farmers who wished remain employed focused on meat and weird dairy products rather than spinach and radicchio.)

But things are looking up (not least thanks to the rapidly increasing number of indigenous tree-huggers) and here is our list of the only best vegetarian restaurants in town.

  • Á næstu grösum is the oldest veggie place in Reykjavík. (The name means literally “On the next grasses,” which has nothing to do with anything illegal.) There is a friendly kind of Scandinavian feeling here on the first floor at the corner of Laugavegur and Trendy Wendy Klapparstígur (close to Gallery Gel, Rósenberg bar and where Sirkus Bar used to be). They have different themes throughout the week, with Tuesdays dedicated to the oh–so–fashionable raw food movement, and Indian Fridays with freshly baked naan to die for. And the staff obviously cares: not only do they know what vegan means, but there’s a wider selection of desserts at this place than at the other ones — and what’s better than a guilt–free chocolate cake? Laugavegur 20b, 101 Reykjavík | Link
  • Garðurinn is another hidden gem on Klapparstígur, just a bit farther up the street (right between Á næstu grösum and that church you all like so much). The name means The Garden, although their official English name is “Ecstasy’s Heart-Garden”. Right–ho. While it’s maybe not as busy or as designed as the other three, it has a younger and what seems like a more earnest crowd. Maybe it’s the ecstasy part that attracts them. Klapparstígur 37, 101 Reykjavík
  • Grænn kostur is the place you go to be seen when you’ve told people you’re on a diet. Celebrities also like to go there when they’ve been giving interviews about their healthy new lifestyles. Basically a fast food place, this somewhat hard–to–find outfit offers various lovely pies and pizzas, as well as soup of the day. (Bonus feature due to some of the owner’s allergy issues: no sugar, yeast, or white wheat.) With few dishes to choose from, the service is quick and efficient. They have a two–for–one special on Sundays and the portions are biiiiiiig. Skólavörðustígur 8b (on the parking lot park side) | Link
  • Maður lifandi, man alive. Yup, that’s what the name means. Not only a restaurant, this is a serious life–improvement establishment where you find people who don’t just come for the excellent food, but for a hard–core lifestyle change. Dishes here are free of lactose, gluten, yeast and humour (just kidding). And in addition to the most extravagant salad bar in town they offer lectures and courses on how to improve your life, listen to your body, laugh while doing yoga, and be generally healthier and happier. Remember to say hi from us. Borgartún 24, 105 Reykjavík | Link

Know more than we do about vegetarian places in Reykjavík? Add your insight to the comments.

Iceland stays in the picture

Iceland is looking pretty good at the moment. At least in these photos.

Our old friend Helga Kvam still makes Iceland look like a million krónas dollars. For a sample of some of her nicest Iceland pictures, just click on the slideshow below or see the fullscreen version here.


And hey — if seeing this makes you want to see more of Iceland, you know how to get there. Just saying.

More Iceland photos: Iceland by Rebekka | Helga Kvam was here | New York Times: Iceland’s Ring Road

Update: If you’re in Germany should check out the film Island 63° 66° N by Stefan Erdmann: "Eine phantastische Reise durch ein phantastisches Land."

In Iceland, we’re suddenly feeling so cheap

The Icelandic krona’s loss is your gain as coming to Iceland has never been less expensive than now.

Icelandic KronaIn the past few weeks the Icelandic króna (a.k.a. “funny money”) has been going through a Keith Richards-scale hangover and looking increasingly like the love child of Amy Winehouse and Pete Doherty.

But every cloud has a silver lining and what all this means for you is that Reykjavík has never been cheaper to visit.

The price of a day tour of the Golden Circle is down to around £45/€57, entry to the Blue Lagoon is £12/€16, and (entirely unrelated) a pack of Durex PleasureMax Warming condoms is down to £7/€9.

Even the price of beer in a Reykjavík bar has reached the level where you could potentially afford to buy us one. (Just kidding.)

In short, now would be a good time to spread the wealth and book a cheap flight, an Icelandic day-tour or even an old-fashioned (not really) package tour.

More on how cheap we are here: Seven Things to Do in Iceland (Why You Should Go Right Now!)

Icelandic Music 101:
FM Belfast

Imagine a Teenage Ninja Turtle having an affair with 2 Unlimited while MC Hammer and Scooter watch from the wardrobe.

One of Reykjavík’s most popular electo bands, FM Belfast throws together samples from all manner of 80s and 90s hits to form a fast-paced barrage of unexpectedly introspective dance music. The boy-girl-boy trio is also famous for an interesting line in cover versions and nerds experts may spot tracks from Rage Against The Machine and Technotronic creeping into their set.


All of which we fear will be included on their new as yet untitled album — out soon! — making us want to pump up some jam and wear neon leggings again. Blast!

More FM Belfast: Myspace | Dancenova | Last.fm | Flickr | YouTube

Previously on Icelandic Music 101: Ghostigital, GusGus, Jeff Who?, Amiina, and múm.

Something for August: The Party Time, Excellent Edition

Colourful people jumping aroundA round-up of things to do in Iceland this August, as prepared by your festively inclined editors.

1-4 August: Verslunarmannahelgi. The wildest and most unpronounceable party in the universe Iceland is Þjóðhátíð, in the Westman Islands. Thousands flock to the tiny island of Heimaey to drink, dance, sing, and “get to know each other.”  It’s no coincidence that most Icelanders have their birthdays in April. Naked Twister anyone?

7-10 August: Reykjavik Gay Pride.  It’s the time to frock up, put on some red lippy and flutter those fake eyelashes.  Oh, and ladies are also welcome of course. It’ll be like Eurovision all over again!

23 August: Reykjavik Marathon and Culture Night. Men and women panting, sweating and wearing tight clothing? Yep, we’re talking about the internationally renowned Reykjavík Marathon of course.  All that running should get the blood pumping for Culture Night, a smorgasbord of pick-and-mix amusements that include art, music, dance, theatre, et cetera. And the best bit? It’s free!

26-30 August: Reykjavik Jazz Festival. The best of the burgeoning Nordic jazz scene, where there’ll be lots of trumpets, saxophones and other instruments that make lots of noise.

28-31 August: Tango Festival. Sexy, sassy and seductive. Oh and we hear there’ll be dancing too.  If the Funky Chicken Dance doesn’t score any dates on a Saturday night out, then maybe a little tango will help spice things up.

A Series of Unfortunate Icelandic Animals, Part One: The Wolf Fish

StonebiterIn the first installment of this important new series, we take a closer look at the piscatorial world’s answer to Keith Richards.

Also known as the Atlantic Catfish, Sea Wolf, Wolf Eel and Anarhichas lupus (which, funnily enough, were all names for lesser known 80s hair metal groups), the Wolf Fish looks its seen a thousand badly-behaved boozy world tours and has the scars and dodgy teeth to prove it.

A larger specimen would happily would eat your hand for dinner before downing a few rocks as an digestif — its Icelandic name Steinbítur translates as ‘stone biter’ — due to some incredibly powerful jaws and a set of fangs that would put Ronaldinho’s vampire double (pictured here) to shame.

But in spite of having looks that only Shane McGowan’s mum could love, this grey monstrosity is a much sought after sport fish. Caught in the deeper seas a few kilometres from Reykjavik, it apparently provides a worthy battle once hooked and attracts serious deep sea anglers (both of them) to holiday in Iceland on a regular basis.

A variety of lures, attractors, fishy baits (clam meat is a real winner) and bits of dead animal are used to tempt the beast from its cave — we use the same trick on our head of IT — but reports surrounding the use of inflatable life-sized ‘Miss Wolf Fish’ lures are unconfirmed at the time of writing.

More Wolf Fish: Flickr | YouTube | Wikipedia | Google Image Search | Khoi Vinh

Photo kindly provided by Daniel. Thanks Daniel, you’re a star in the face of the sky.

Five things to remember when visiting Iceland

pool.gif
Think you’re ready to take the plunge? Here’s your survival kit.

1. Bring a bathing suit. Iceland’s national sport is swimming. (”Swimming” here loosely defined as sitting in a hot tub talking.) There are about 200 swimming pools in Iceland, and you could say they’re the Icelandic equivalent of the English pub. Oh, and the hot pots are a great place to pick up gossip with the locals.

2. Bring batteries. To keep going and going and going. You’ll need stamina and durability to party like the locals. The bars and clubs in Reykjavik are kind of like Icelandic nature, wild and untamed (unless you hit the town before midnight, when you’ll find it similar in other ways — desolate and frigid). Hot spots include Kaffibarinn and for the “happy” folk, Q-Bar.

3. Learn some Icelandic. Just the most commonly used Icelandic phrases should do it…

  • “Kemur þú oft hingað?” (Translation: “So, do you come here often?”)
  • “Ég myndi kaupa handa þér drykk ef það væri ekki svona dýrt, getum við ekki bara farið beint heim til mín?” (Translation: “I’d like to buy you a drink but it’s so expensive, let’s just skip it and go straight back to my place”).

Click for some more Icelandic lessons.

4. Dress like a local. Why not leave the hiking boots and brightly colored raincoats in the hotel room when walking downtown Reykjavik? (Although it does make “spot the foreigner” so much more fun when you don’t). In order to blend in, you’ll definitely need a Lopapeysa (traditional Icelandic jumper). But like a true local, you’ll need to rip off the lopapeysa and bare those pasty-white arms once the temperature hits 10 degrees and a sun ray peeps out.

5. Bring a paper clip. Iceland is full of extremes. You know, the landscape (fire, ice, et cetera), the people (naughty, nice, et cetera), the weather (rain, shine, et cetera). You’ll need a paper clip to hold it all together. And maybe a flashlight wouldn’t be a bad idea either, especially in winter.

Hidden People of the World Unite

Troll or elf, who cares?With all these elves, trolls and hidden people mucking about, the question isn’t only whether they exist, but also whether people actually believe they exist.

So do they or don’t they? No, we’re not talking about Santa Claus or The Tooth Fairy — we all know they’re for real — we’re talking about the Hidden People. You know, elves and trolls and things.

What are these things? Well, after some serious investigative journalism (not really) here’s what we’ve come up with:

While elves are usually benevolent creatures that live between heaven and earth, a few mean-spirited elves sometimes try to lure humans into their world by having them accept delicious food or gold bracelets.

Now, trolls on the other hand are hideous, greedy creatures who have been banished to the deep underworld. If they are caught above ground at daylight they turn into stone, which explains some of country’s unusual rock formations.

Spooky. Generally speaking though, a good rule of thumb is that the hidden people won’t harm you unless you disturb theim or interrupt their way of life (sort of like the Americans, actually).

So do Icelanders really belive this, or is it just something that’s good for selling trinkets to tourists? Well it’s not as if the design of new roads or building sites is changed to avoid disturbing the hidden people. Or that several organizations in Iceland have employed folklore researchers to determine the impact of construction projects on the hidden communities.

Um, actually, yes they do.

So forget Big Foot and Loch Ness, come and explore the world of the mystical beings or take courses in “elf studies” from the (somewhat disreputable) Icelandic Elf School. With your diploma in hand, you too can be employed by the government as a “consultant” dedicated to finding a harmonious existence with these mystical beings so that everyone can live happily ever after. The End.

More about The Hidden People: Iceland Tourist Board | Icelandic Wonders | Iceland Mythology | The Travel Rag

Viking Festival: Come If You Dare

Where's your sword?What’s big, burly and grunts a lot… (apart from your grandmother)? An Icelandic Viking of course! For those of you who missed the original Vikings the first time, the town of Hafnarfjörður has brought them back for a best-of reunion tour.

This year, the International Viking Festival takes over the town from 12-16 June. The festival demonstrates most aspects of Viking life and culture, including ships, “cuisine”, handcraft, storytelling, archery, games, music, and battle reenactments.

Before you get too excited, we’ve heard that they leave out all the best bits… you know, the burning, pillaging, slaughtering and stealing that the Vikings are most renowned for. Oh well, we guess it could still be fun (sigh).

The Festival is all about authenticity and re-creating Viking life in detail. We wonder, however, if their commitment to realism will include the full sensory effect. Given the primitive state of the sewage system, the tendency to keep farmyard animals in their bedrooms, and the number of un-refrigerated dead fish (and human carcasses) hanging around, one would imagine that the olfactory aspect would be an important element of the experience. And it would definitely help to build one’s appetite for that traditional Viking feast! Pass the blood sausage and a nose clip, please.

For all you wannabe maurauders out there, you might even be lucky enough to score a date with a beautiful Icelandic Viking woman! So what are you waiting for? Come along to the festival. Bring your sword, battle axe (no, not your wife) and get into the Viking spirit!

Viking Festival Info | Flickr Set

Back to Nature for Björk and Sigur Rós

Break the ice, not the bank.Industrial magnates of the world beware. Icelandic elves artists are striking back.

Breaking news! Björk and Sigur Rós are not too thrilled at all about highly pollutant aluminum smelters being built left, right and center in Iceland.

The musical pair are dedicated to environmental issues and feel as if the Icelandic image of, you know, like purity and unspoilt nature and all, is being tarnished by the ever-increasing number of heavy-industry factories being built all around the country.

On 28 June, the divine duo will perform together at a free, open air concert in Reykjavík, in an attempt to raise awareness for the issue, and we want you to be there.

Travel From: London, Copenhagen, Paris, Stockholm, Frankfurt, Eindhoven, Friedrichshafen, Gothenburg, and Basel.

Travel Period:
25 June to 2 July 2008.

Booking Period:
Right Now - 9 June, 23:59 GMT.

Return fares, including taxes and charges, from:

  • ₤148
  • €195
  • DKK 1489
  • SEK 1828
  • ISK 20.170

Legal Stuff: Act fast - limited dates and seats.

UPDATE: SORRY, THE ICEBREAKER SALE IS FINISHED, BUT DO CHECK OUR EXTREMELY MODERATE REGULAR AIRFARES TO ICELAND. AFTER ALL, THE CONCERT IS FREE FOLKS!  

Ready to get your environmental groove on?
You’re missing out - Book Now!

More concert info: Björk | Sigur Rós | I Love Icelandic Music

In case you missed it the first time: Book a Seat!

Everybody Loves a Last Minute Deal

Tick TockQuick on the draw? We’ve got 1000 seats for ₤49 on sale until tomorrow night. Get clicking!

Seven airports, a bunch of low fares, one great destination!

Travel From: London, Copenhagen, Paris, Stockholm, Frankfurt, Eindhoven, and Basel

Travel Period:
1 June to 15 June 2008

Booking Period:
Right Now - 23:59 GMT, 30 May 2008

One-way fares, including taxes and charges, from:

  • ₤49
  • €60
  • DKK 470
  • SEK 580
  • ISK 6.990

Legal Stuff: Act fast because when they’re gone, they’re gone. Limited dates too, of course.

Still here?
You’re missing out - Book Now!

We Love Björk as Much as Everyone Else

Hi Bjork, I'm Bjork. Nice eyes.But we’re not going to make a fake video about her.

Sometimes we stumble across things online that make us really wonder about the fate of humanity.

Then we leave Oprah.com.

But even the rest of the Net seems to be jammed with people stalking celebrities or taping themselves doing borderline illegal things with Mexican food. Or both.

We won’t claim that this video is funny, but at least it portrays Iceland’s most famous daughter doing something other than beating the crap out of a reporter.

Something for May: The Concerts are Coming Edition

A roundup of things to do in Iceland this May, as prepared by your ticket-holding editors.

  • Bob Dylan does his best John Lennon.Icelanders aren’t much for people who whine about what’s wrong in the world, but they sure are excited about Bob Dylan’s concert 26 May. Just like a woman.
  • Rite of Spring Festival returns 17-19 May. It’s like Airwaves for the folk, jazz, and world music scene, except people might actually remember it the following day.
  • Speaking of old-people music, John Fogerty will try to slip some non-Credence Clearwater Revival tunes by the crowd 21 May. It’ll give you a chance to grab a beer.
  • How about something for nothing? Only if you’re fast. There’s a free Midday Concert in Hafnarborg 1 May. Book now!
  • It’s never too early for a blunt. James Blunt visits the joint 12 June. Smoke ‘em if you got ‘em.

And hey - let’s be careful out there.

The Little Gay Viking

Little Gay Viking? Maybe one out of three.There once was a little gay Viking. This friendly but misunderstood fellow spent all his time braiding horses’ manes and knitting colorful scarves. The village people liked him, until one day he got drunk on chocolate choo-choos at the summer festival and tried to kiss Thor, the blacksmith. Thor was really embarrassed and angry because he was more aroused than disgusted, so he locked him in a closet.

From that day on the little gay Viking, and all other little gay Vikings that came after him, had to hide their feelings or risk the consequences. But about 30 years ago a group formed to help. Samtökin 78 decided that all of the gay Vikings should be let out of the closet, and they somehow got the rest of the country (more or less) to agree.

These days the majority of Icelanders not only accept the lifestyle of their more fabulous countrymen and women, they even show up in droves every summer to celebrate their diversity with a Gay Pride parade.

So whether you’re a stromo, a judy, or a raging bear, Iceland has a special place for you - and we promise it won’t be in the closet.

Iceland’s gayest upcoming events:
17 May - Gay dance at Organ | 13-16 June - Leather Summit

Get the whole flaming story: Gayice

 

What to Name Your
Icelandic Baby

After that first blissful night in an Icelandic nightclub, the next thing you’ll want to do is have an Icelandic baby. This is perfectly understandable, but be warned: you’ll have to give it an Icelandic name. It’s the law.

Beautiful Icelandic Children

You might frown at a rule dictating what you may or may not name your child, muttering something about freedom of choice, but you’ll soon find the rules helpful. After all, the more interesting your child’s name, the more interesting you yourself appear to be, so naming your kid Aðalbjörg will give you all sorts of cool cache. Plus it will prove to your friends and family that you’re finally shacking up with an Icelander.

But some Icelandic names sound disappointingly English, so avoid “Jón”, “Davið”, “Anna”, “María” and “Nóvember” at all costs. Instead, how about “Snjólaukur” for a boy, or “Grettisgata” for a girl? Whatever you do, do not name your baby “Björk” — it’s just trying too hard.

Hopefully you already understand about the Icelandic last-name conventions, which dictate that boys take their father’s first name and stick a “son” on the end of it and girls have to do the same with “dóttir”. And if you’re really, truly traditional you’ll give your son both his father’s first name and last name as a special treat — which is how the world was blessed with the likes of Magnus Magnusson.

Magnus Magnusson

But try to be original: there are many beautiful Icelandic names to choose from - some more pronounceable than others. Luckily, nearly all Icelanders are given nicknames that are shortened, easier versions of their birth-names at some point, which means that no matter what you choose to name your child, it will inevitably be known as either Siggi or Sigga in the end anyway. So much for cool cache.

Don’t take our word for it: before naming your baby you’d be wise to look up Wikipedia’s full list of genuine Icelandic names for boys and girls. And you can check their meanings here. Good luck!

Insert Your Own Bad Spring Pun Here

Book Now!We’re at it again!

Miss out on the concert giveaway last week? Have no fear - the Icebreaker’s here!

Travel From: London, Copenhagen, Berlin, Barcelona, and Alicante

Travel Period:
17 April - 14 May 2008

Booking Period:
16 April (noon GMT!) - midnight 17 April 2008

One-way fares, including taxes and charges, from:

  • ₤56
  • €70
  • 535 DKK
  • 669 SEK

Legal Stuff: Act fast because when they’re gone, they’re gone. Limited dates too, of course.

Still here?
Get your seat before this deal melts away. Book Now!

Follow the Light

The first 100 people to book this Icebreaker deal will get free concert tickets, but everyone gets return tickets for ₤154!

Quit playing with your mirror ball.The Þráður (Thread) music festival next weekend features some of Iceland’s hottest bands (see below), and we want to give you a free ticket. The first 100 people to book one of these special city break deals will walk in for free. That leaves lots of extra cash to buy the blonde at the end of the bar a drink.

*If you are one of the 100 lucky ticket winners you will pick up your pass at the venue (NASA).

Travel From: London, Copenhagen, and Berlin

Travel Period:
Depart 17 April, Return 21 April 2008

Booking Period:
Friom right now until 17 April 2008

Return fares, including taxes and charges, from*:

  • ₤154
  • €190
  • DKK 1430

* Be sure to choose the correct currency during booking for the deal!

Legal Stuff: Act fast because when they’re gone, they’re gone. Limited dates too, of course.

Still here?
Come get your groove on, Iceland style. Book Now!

Some of the Thread bands: Halfdís Huld | President Bongo of GusGus | Brain Police | XXX Rottweiler Hundur 

Why Iceland Sucks Socks

You stink.Our new employees don’t sock around — they tell it like it is.

Need to say something to someone about Iceland but don’t dare do it in person? Let our new employees do your dirty work for you.

The Iceland Socks are a rag-tag bunch of loudmouth sock puppets with questionable taste in clothing. They seem to be traveling around Iceland and they’re not afraid to say what they think of it.

Or, to be more precise, they’re not afraid to say what you think of it.

Feed them some lines and cut a short film that doesn’t have to sound like it comes from the Icelandic Tourist Board. You can then send your masterpiece to a friend! Or a foe! Or the nearest film school!

Don’t sock around: Send a sock-o-gram now!

Something for April: The Make Your Own Edition

A roundup of things to do in Iceland this month, as prepared by your always-ready-to-satisfy-themselves editors.

Get packing.As far as official events go, April is a dead month. Spring is in the air and nobody wants to commit to being anywhere, at any time (except, perhaps, the pool — let’s say Saturday at noon?). So here are some suggestions to keep you busy this month:

  • Traveller’s Day corresponds to the first day of summer on the Viking Calendar. Celebrate with cheap bus tours, fishing trips and family events. We like our Traveller’s Day like we like our women: warm and inexpensive.
  • Go see some glaciers and rocks and things. Ok, it’s a shameless plug, but we know a few tour operators who will gladly show you around. Get on the bus.
  • You can walk off your hangover (and the twelve hot dogs you ate yesterday) with a hike up Mount Esja. A 15 minute drive from the capital, Esja offers a relatively easy hike to the best views around.
  • Find your next mad crush. In case you haven’t heard, Icelanders are rather good looking. And smart. And they don’t expect you to have great manners. You just may have a chance.

And hey — let’s be careful out there!

Why Stop at the Showers?

Iceland: The least likely place on earth to perfect your all-over tan.

Come on Jude, save the spanking for later.Almost a year and a half ago we warned you about the nude bathing requirements at Reykjavík’s swimming pools. The inquiries from terrified travellers were overwhelming.

Do I really have to get, like, all the way undressed?

Are there any pools with private showers?

I’m circumcised… will that be a problem?

It seems that most people who visit Iceland haven’t been naked in public since the nurse slapped on their first diaper.

But we fear that we may have created a monster. Apparently some of you are becoming so comfortable with yourselves that the establishment has been forced to act. Notices prohibiting women from doing any ”personal grooming” in the showers have sprung up on changing room walls, and now this story appears in an Icelandic newspaper.

The article describes the rising popularity of topless sunbathing at public pools in Iceland and notes that, in most cases, while airing your lady lumps may get the attention of the 14-year-old boys swimming nearby, the pool staff couldn’t care less. At least they won’t kick you out for it.

In a poll of our Iceland Express office, nobody reports noticing an increase in nipple slips at public pools (although our Content Editor excitedly claims to have seen Páll Óskar lose his bottoms on the water slide at Sundlaug Vesturbaejar).

But closet exhibitionists rejoice - the weather is warming up, the sun is shining, and the tourists are on their way.

Most Boring Iceland Review Stories of the Month

Please pass the smelling salts.Iceland Review is a web news site and quarterly magazine specializing in all things Iceland.  As a resource for foreigners interested in the goings-on of daily Icelandic life, it is about as good as you can get (other than this page, of course).

But here’s the thing: There are only, like, 300,000 people here. There just isn’t that much news.

Hence, The Most Boring Iceland Review Stories of the Month:

Central Bank Contemplates Measures for the Banks
-They must be taking a break from all the sing-alongs and finger painting.

Business Opportunities in Development
-Business Opportunities took 2007 off.

Senior Citizens in Reykjavík Satisfied
-Perhaps by the new business opportunities.

Iceland May Minimize Trans Fats
-Just maybe. Better check back daily for updates!

Supplement your blogging with some of IR’s more interesting stories here.

 

An Introduction to
Icelandic Mannerisms

Want to avoid feeling out-of-place in Reykjavik? Never mind eating sheep testicles in an attempt to fit in — here are the important everyday customs you’ll really need to become a true Friend of Iceland.

Never eat soup with your fingers

Take off your shoes
If you’re lucky enough to get invited into the home of a genuine Icelandic person (yes, it has been known to happen) make sure you take your shoes off at the door. Walking wet sludge all over their brand new parquet flooring is considered bad manners. And watch out - the same rule applies at some swimming pools, doctor’s offices, and other public areas.

Whatever you do, don’t say hello to anybody
Never say “hi” to anybody you recognise. Not even if they spent the whole of last night propping up the bar with you, relaying their life-story. People don’t greet each other here until after they’ve had at least two beers — then you’re free to hug / laugh / cry / get married, whatever.

Eat everything with your cutlery
Icelanders haven’t yet realised that burgers are served between two pieces of bread precisely so you don’t need to use a knife and fork to eat them.

Don’t be a push-over
Don’t feel offended if you get shoved to the floor in bars. It’s not that Icelanders are rude, it’s just that you’re in their way. We advise you to smile brightly and push right back. You might make a friend that won’t say “hi” later.

It's not a custom, they're just cold

Get naked
Icelanders are notoriously hygienic. You must shower naked before you swim, paying special attention to your special areas. If you’re not sure which parts we mean exactly, refer to the classic Naked Androgynous Diagram.

You seem to have right-of-way
Don’t be surprised when cars slow down to let you cross in front of them; even if you never wanted to cross in the first place. It just gives everybody a chance to get a better look at you.

No Icelandic word for ‘please’
Say takk a lot to make up for it.

Something for March: The Bleeding Gums Edition

A roundup of things to do in Iceland this month, as prepared by your 8 Bar editors.

  • That sax will never make it through airport security.The Yardbirds don’t remember the 60’s, but you might. They join musicians from all over the world 18-21 March at the Reykjavík Blues Festival. Sad and happy at the same time
  • So you’ve seen Spamalot four times… wouldn’t it be nice to see the New York City Players in an homage to old western movies in Iceland? The International Festival of Theater runs 6-9 March. Who needs Monty Python?
  • Help March go out like lamb by adopting your very own Icelandic sheep. Really. Use her wool, choose her lover, and even eat her children. Better hurry before Angelina Jolie and Madonna snap them all up!

And hey - let’s be careful out there!

Everyone Loves a Last Minute Deal

Tick TockQuick on the draw? We’ve got 1000 seats for ₤49. Get clicking!

Seven airports, a bunch of low fares, one great destination!

Travel From: London, Copenhagen, Paris, Stockholm, Frankfurt, Eindhoven, and Basel 

Travel Period:
1 June to 15 June 2008

Booking Period:
Right Now - 23:59 GMT, 30 May 2008

One-way fares, including taxes and charges, from:

  • ₤49
  • €60
  • DKK 470
  • SEK 580
  • ISK 6.990

Legal Stuff: Act fast because when they’re gone, they’re gone. Limited dates too, of course.

Still here?
You’re missing out -  Book Now!

We come from the land of the ice and snow…

from the midnight sun where the hot springs blow. Led Zeppelin screamed these words and unknowingly became the first “Friends of Iceland”.

If you’re famous, have been to Iceland once, and have said anything positive about the country, you are qualified to be an Íslandsvinur - A Friend of Iceland

This honour is probably bestowed because we feel small in a global context and want to feel oh-so-glam, so we use that popular method employed by anyone feeling inferior – we namedrop.Kiefer, our friend with benefits When foreign friends are over we take them to Harrison Ford’s favourite Indian place, Ryan Philippe’s hang out hotel bar, and Damon Albarn’s does-he-still-own-it?-anyway-he-loves-it pub. And every girl you’ll meet here has received a drink or two from this or that chap. Especially this chap. –>

The first time celebs are here they might get some attention. But by the second and third time they’re here, they have gained the Friend of Iceland status and should be treated as a local celeb, i.e. coyly ignored except in queues outside the clubs. In this way, the celebs can get some privacy, and the Icelanders have something to blog about and tell their foreign friends.

We also like to spread our love of Iceland to all who visit. Even people that are here for work, like actors filming in Iceland, are said to have “fallen for Icelandic nature and leisure” simply because they spend their days off swimming, looking at Geysir, and going to clubs. If they buy an estate here it keeps the entire Icelandic nation happy for a month or so.Tarantino wearing Death itself

If the Íslandsvinur mentions that they were here in interviews it becomes headline news. Quentin Tarantino said horrible things about drunk Icelandic models on Conan O’Brian. However, he did like the snowmobile tour and he complimented Brennivín. This one was tricky, because of the drunken Icelandic women comments, but in the end his status as an Íslandsvinur remained because the girls he mentioned weren’t really supermodels (just regular Icelandic beauties) and he wore some Nonni Dead designs on various occasions after his visit. So it’s all good.

Oh, RobbieThere’s only one man that is an enemy of Iceland – Robbie Williams. When he stepped out of his private jet, and Icelandic news casters bombarded him with questions about what he knew about Iceland, as well as the infamous question How do you like Iceland? his security guards brutally pushed them aside. So Robbie criminally said absolutely nothing about the beauty of Iceland or its women, even though he had been in the country for about 12 minutes. Furthermore, he walked off stage after 20 minutes of playing because someone threw a water bottle on stage. A sworn enemy indeed.

If you are not sure how to keep your cool around international celebrities, go to this bar and learn from the best.

Iceland’s Contribution to the Iraq War, Part II

The search for Iceland’s troop continues. Let’s hope the war keeps going until she can go back!

Iceland’s Contribution to the Iraq War, Part I

Iceland’s troop finds that her hand-knit wool sweaters are not appreciated in Baghdad.

Get a Taste of Iceland

This is an appetiser, but you better believe that the main course is far more filling!


Midwinter Bloating

Here in Iceland we’re currently in the thick of Þorrablót season—the traditional midwinter festival where people get together to eat rotten food and drink lots of Black Death. While it is commonly regarded by outsiders as merely a putrid-food drinkfest, there is a lot more to it than that.
Before Iceland adopted Christianity in 1000 AD, it was a Pagan society that worshipped the Norse gods. A blót was a celebration held in honor of the gods, and Þorrablót was held in the month of Þorri, which began in the 13th week of winter according to the Pagan calendar. Originally it was a sacrificial feast dedicated to the god Þór (Thor to you and me).
Save me an eyeball!Before 1000 AD, a brewing feud between Pagans and the growing number of Christians in the country threatened to erupt. The two sides each refused to acknowledge the laws of the other. Under the threat of imminent chaos, a decision was made to ask the Pagan Law Speaker Þorgeir Ljósvetningagoði—who was known to be a pretty cool guy—to make a decision on behalf of the fledgling nation as to which laws it should uphold.
So old Þorgeir went and lagðist undir feld—literally ‘lay down beneath a skin’—in order to meditate on his decision (hence creating an idiom in the Icelandic language—when one needs to make a major decision they need to leggjast undir feld). He stayed there for a night and a day, and then declared that he felt it was most wise to adopt Christianity, although the pagans could still hold their celebratory feasts as long as they did so discreetly, i.e. in secret. Consequently the Þorrablót feasts went underground and, in addition to being a fun chance for a get-together, they presented an opportunity to finish off all those leftovers that had been preserved in… well, in whatever This may be raw meat, but it's not sushi.way was possible back then. And so Þorrablót became inextricably linked to things like cured (read: putrefied) shark, soured ram’s testicles, pickled whale blubber, sheep’s head jelly, soured intestines, and so on…
This carried on for centuries, until around 200 years ago someone decided that they probably wouldn’t be beheaded if they held the party out in the open. So today Þorrablót are held all over the country, replete with toasts to Thor (not really) and lots of the dubious delicacies described above (yes, really). No Pagan cloak required.

Have Your Own Þorrablót: Icecook | Jo’s Recipes

 

Something for February:
The You Don’t Mess with Spring Edition

A round-up of things to do in Iceland this February, as prepared by your sickly-white editors.

  • You Dont Mess with the ZohanTell darkness to “smell it… smell it… NOW TAKE IT!” 7-9 February at the Winter Lights Festival. Bring a flashlight.
  • Fight racism with hip-hop at Gauk á Stöng 1 February. Don’t expect to see many Spanish football loyalists.
  • The Iceland Symphony Orchestra performs Dark Days of Music 7 February. The title “Death of Music” was taken by Amy Winehouse.
  • Now that the weather has gone all winter on us, why not strap on a snow machine and carve a glacier?  You know you want to.

And hey - let’s be careful out there.

The Most Depressing Day of the Year

Restricted Icelandic daylight hours could make the whole of our winter pretty depressing if we let it, but the 21st of January has been and gone — and your editors are still alive to tell the tale.

This is like watching Home Alone on LSDAccording to alleged university professor Dr Cliff Arnall, Monday the 21st of January is officially the most depressing day of the year. He can prove it too, with one dubious mathematical equation and rather obvious references to bad weather and early nightfall. The only way to avoid this, according to the “Doctor”, is to book a holiday — not a bad thought, but it doesn’t help his credibility.

Well, even we have to admit that on the surface, Iceland is an odd choice for an uplifting holiday. We only have two seasons: winter and spring, and at the moment it’s most definitely winter: cold, damp, and — thanks to being anchored on the edge of the Arctic Circle — mostly dark. And yet we only rank number 34 on the World Health Organization’s suicide rate list. A disappointing result for most Icelanders (who like to come first at everything).

If we keep our heads down, we can't smell the farts.Maybe it’s because what little winter light we do have is pretty spectacular. There’s the northern lights, of course, caused by a collision of charged particles in the Earth’s magnetosphere — whatever that means. And at this latitude dawn and dusk can last for hours, so in good weather (and by “good” we mean freezing cold and snowy) Iceland is an all-day sunset — cue uplifting fluffy pink skies!

So, most depressing day of the year? Pfft, we didn’t notice. We were all happily sitting indoors, ignoring the season completely, knowing that spring is just around the corner. In late May.

Shake your blues - book a northern lights tour with Iceland Excursions; go horse-riding in the snow with Ishestar; or just have a beer in candlelit Kaffibarinn with the locals. And hey, hows about a smile?

Because Nerds are Cool in Iceland

A laptop in Reykjavik is like a guitar-case on the continent: it doesn’t matter what you’re doing with it, just carrying one around increases your chances of getting lucky.

Stickers will get you laidImagine using your computer in a pub back home; everybody would look at you like you’re barmy… before turning back to the television that’s blaring away in the corner, that is. Nearly all bars in Reykjavik are TV-free, thankfully, but what’s even better is that being a nerd is actually considered cool in Iceland, and you can surf the net in the pub without anybody thinking any the less of you for it.

Most bars offer free WiFi: just pull your computer out of your backpack and click to connect to the network. But make sure it’s the right brand of computer; Icelanders are generally trendier than most other nationalities, spending more money on over-priced hardware than anybody else, per capita. Of course, if you don’t own a Mac, you can always paint your PC white and slap an apple-shaped sticker on it — which would probably go down well in bars like Kaffibarinn where D.I.Y. fashion always wins you extra cool points.

Whose blog is that?Careful though, a few bars only offer net access at a price, but these places are money-grabbing tourist-traps which you hopefully wouldn’t be seen dead in anyway. On the other end of the scale, bars like b5 on Bankastræti not only offer free WiFi but will loan you a fancy MacBook to go with it, too. They don’t even charge — you just have to leave some ID behind the bar as insurance.

And remember, nobody has to know you’re just poking people on Facebook all day — scratch your head enough and we’ll all think you’re writing that award-winning first novel.

Other favourite nerding-dens include Babalu on Skólavörðustígur, Prikið on Bankastræti, and Hresso down on Austurstræti 20. If you’re not sure if a bar offers free WiFi, just ask. If the answer’s no, there are plenty of other places that do.

London, Copenhagen, and Berlin - Oh My!

Fly to Iceland from London, Copenhagen, or Berlin from just ₤52!

Follow the Orange Arrows...Iceland in the winter?! Of course! The weather is mild (really), there is plenty to do (glacier tour anyone?), and the nightlife never takes a season off (it’s always hot in the clubs).

Travel Period:
15 January to 15 March 2008

Booking Period:
14 to 16 January 2008 (noon GMT both days)

One-way fares, including taxes and charges, from:

  • ₤52
  • €71
  • DKK 533
  • SEK 638
  • NOK 560
  • ISK 6.375

The small print: Fares are on a first-come, first-served basis. When the seats are gone, they’re gone. Limited dates too, of course. Plus an Icebreaker fare can only be changed to a regular fare. That’s it, we think.

Still here?
Experience Iceland - like nothing you’ve done before. Book now!

Rebekka Guðleifsdóttir: Keeping Iceland Beautiful, One Picture at a Time

Stunning. Inspiring. Slightly wild… and the photos aren’t bad either.

In this second instalment of our continuing look at amazingly talented, attractive, self-taught female Icelandic photographers (yes, there’s more than one), we sat down with Rebekka Guðleifsdóttir, who has dominated Flickr by presenting Iceland, and herself, as art.

what you don't know can indeed hurt you

Rebekka Guðleifsdóttir is a bit uneasy about her success. She started taking pictures two years ago, and has since become one of the Web’s most popular photographers. During her short professional career she has been named “The Web’s Top Photographer” by the Wall Street Journal, done commercial work for Toyota, stared in a London documentary, and established her own web site and online store to sell prints. All while trying to finish art school and raise her two boys.

EveIEX: Rebekka, how did all this start?
RG: I really just fell into photography without planning to be a photographer. I worked for three years in a coffee shop and would do pencil drawings when things were slow. I sold a few, and hoped that I would eventually become a painter.  But then I discovered that I could make photos that looked like what I wanted to paint, and they didn’t take 4 months to produce! Plus, I was a hopeless painter.

You’re obviously a good photographer - your Flickr site has received well over 4 million hits.
Sometimes I wonder if it’s been too fast. Flickr is a bit of a monster. I owe a lot of my success to the site, but it has also forced me to become “professional” about my work very quickly. When I started posting pictures I was really just messing around, having fun taking shots of myself or whatever came to mind. As the popularity of the site grew and I learned more of my craft, it became more about creating art through photography.

Your subject matter has to help. 
Yeah, Iceland is very photogenic! [Laughs.] I know that there were people who came to my site to see more of “me,” but that’s not what I’m all about. If that’s all I was aiming for I could just upload a new photo every day, instead of struggling for weeks to create a work that I’m proud to show off. I create self portraits, but the photos are not about my self. In most photos my face is hidden because the shot is about the vision, the interaction of human and landscape - I’m more of a prop. Plus, I’m there when inspiration strikes, and I don’t have to spend time conveying my idea to someone else, hoping they do what I need them to do - I already know what I want.

Krýsuvík

And you know what other people want…
People tell me all the time that they’re visiting Iceland because of my pictures. Ironically, my landscapes have been almost dismissed by my teachers… they’re not “art.” I disagree. When you live in a place like Iceland, how could you look around and not want to photograph it all? Living here makes it easy to see the art in everyday life… the key is to capture something that your eyes usually miss. Otherwise, why take a picture?

So what do you do when you’re not taking amazing photos?
[Long pause, then laughs.] Nothing. Well, I read and knit, and sleep sometimes, but free time is a rare treat. Between my two boys and school and taking photos, that’s about it.

Don’t worry Rebekka, that’s quite enough for us.

Rebekka Guðleifsdóttir: Rebekka’s Page on Our SiteHer Website | Buy Prints | Flickr

Something for January: The Rebirth Edition

A roundup of things to do in Iceland this January, as prepared by your flamin’-in-’08 editors.

Chest hairs rosting on an open fire...January is always a time for reflection and change. Throw in raging bonfires, enough fireworks to make a Chinese arsonist crap his pants, and the return of the sun, and there’s nowhere that feels quite as refreshing as Iceland this New Year.

  • No friends on New Years Eve? Try your luck at any of the 10 free community bonfires around town. Drink, socialise, and burn some garbage
  • Can’t make it to Baghdad this year? Watch €20 million worth of explosives light up Reykjavík at midnight. George Bush would be proud.
  • Icelandic Christmas just goes on and on… Our favourite Yule Lad, Candle Beggar, makes his way back to the mountains 6 January. Thank goodness, that guy smells like rotten egg salad.
  • If there’s one thing that Icelanders know, it’s shopping. Retail prices in Iceland become almost normal in January during post-holiday sales, so join the fun

And hey - let’s be careful out there.

Putrid Fish for Beginners

Step One: Hold your nose.

Tastes like chicken.In a country of bizarre traditions, one of the craziest has to be the putrid skate party. Every year on Þorláksmessa (St. Thorlák’s Mass), 23 December, Icelanders get together and eat skate (the fish, not the sporting equipment) that has been sitting in a closed container and allowed to ferment for about a month. By that time it has a smell that can clear your sinuses from a mile away, and that is very reminiscent of cat piss (it’s the ammonia - yum!).

Predictably, not everyone is partial to this tradition. It’s kind of a macho thing. Men seem to be more prone to imbibing putrid skate than women … which is probably a good thing, as a single bite will put hair on your chest instantly. In fact, groups of men will get together in the afternoon to eat the stuff in unison. This will usually involve copious amounts of brennivín (a schnapps appropriately nicknamed Black Death) because, well, you’ll drink anything to get the stuff down. Very often these skate-fests take place in restaurants or garages for the simple reason that, if cooked in a kitchen, the prevailing smell during the holiest of all holy festivals will be less like cinnamon and spice and more like urine.

Not just a fun plague anymore.Supposedly, eating putrid skate originated in Iceland’s West Fjords, where the wealthy gave it to their workers so that anything – anything at all – would taste better in the aftermath. We’re sure they never envisioned that it would become a nationwide, er, delicacy … nor that, in a century’s time, people would be claiming that rotten skate cures colds and increases libido. While the first assertion is plausible enough (the stench could clear an elephant’s sinuses), the second… well… let’s just say you’re probably better off sticking to Viagra.

Sigur Rós Spreads Some Holiday Cheer

Icelanders have gotten a bit of a reputation for being shy with people they don’t know. We swear it’s not true.

Sigur Rós Info: Band Site | Their Movie | Crazy Fan Site

Chasing Aurora

You’ve seen the pictures, heard the rave reviews, and now you want to experience them for yourself: the aurora borealis, the northern lights, those elusive, magical, shimmering rows of colour that dance across the Nordic skies in winter.

Northern LightsThe northern lights are definitely near the top of sights to see for the majority of tourists that travel to Iceland in the winter. However, frustratingly, they tend to play hard to get. They don’t just appear on command, and there are no guarantees. For one thing, the conditions have to be just right. Obviously, it has to be dark, with an absence of cloud cover. It also has to be cold, preferably below freezing, which - you may be surprised to know - is not always the case in Iceland in winter. In fact, thanks to the country’s marine climate and the close proximity of the Gulf Stream, to say nothing of global warming, it’s far more common for temperatures to be above freezing than below it.

Also, the chances of seeing the northern lights are far greater during the darkest winter months, meaning November to January. By February the day is already getting longer, and the chances of catching a glimpse of aurora diminish rapidly.

Also the northern lights... duh.A number of tour operators run northern lights tours, which is probably an excellent bet for those serious about their northern lights viewing. The tour operators keep tabs on conditions at any given time and will head out to locations where the aurora are most likely to appear. This will usually mean heading into the countryside, since light pollution is another major deterrent to successful northern lights viewing. Hence the likelihood of experiencing those swirling, dancing lights increases substantially outside of the capital area.

If you think all this sounds like too much trouble just to see a few lights in the sky, think again. Standing out in the moonlight, far from human habitation, with those stunning columns of light wafting above you - and even emitting a vague whooshing sound! - you’ll be awestruck and thrilled in equal measure. And you’ll thank us later.

Take a Tour: Iceland Excursions